From Çanakkale to Troy and Bergama (April 21, 2008)
Troy
Troy is a complicated archaeological site made even more difficult by the massive trench that Schliemann in his enthusiasm bulldozed through it. The guidebooks warned us to be disappointed, but they were wrong. This is a great and interesting site, well marked and well signed, so that it's always very clear where you are on the map and also in time. We traverse the site, climbing up and down from 3000 BC to Roman times.
We stand just behind the same wall from which Andromache, babe in arms, might have watched her beloved Hector die. Though the sea is farther away now, we look out over the same plain she did. I find that after all these years, the death of Hector still moves me to tears.
Kuçükkuyu
Traveling from Troy to Bergama, we cross several distinct geological zones as soil color, weather, natural flora, and crops all change. We cross a mountain pass late in the morning and get our first distant view of the Aegean, with the town of Kuçükkuyu far below. To our left, huddled together on the uphill side of the road are a number of small stalls selling--can that be: honey? "Let's get some honey!" I say, but Dan says no. "Do you want to have to carry heavy bottles of honey around with us everywhere?" "Noooo..." I agree reluctantly. (Later, this will seem funny. It will also be a source of some regret.)
To our right, the view is amazing.
A small, otherwise unremarkable-looking café perches narrowly between road and cliff. "Let's stop here and get a cup of coffee," I suggest. Dan is thinking the same thing. And so by accident we discover the Teras Café.
Coffee in Turkey generally consists of either Turkish coffee (good if you like a bit of grit with your drink) and Nescafe (hi, Mom!). So Dan orders the former and I the latter, and as we sit and enjoy being there, the older couple at the next table has a meal brought to them that looks extraordinary. Except for the plate piled high with lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber, carrots, and long, green peppers, we recognize none of it. But whatever that meal is, we want it. It's a bit early for lunch, but not terribly so. Dan asks for a menu, but the waiter speaks no English. Dan mimes the opening of a book. The waiter is confused by this. Menu? A menu in a book, no less? We have underestimated the degree of informality in the place.
"I speak some English. Perhaps I might help," offers the gentleman at the next table. "Would you permit me to make a recommendation?"
We agree gladly. And the man recommends what he and his wife are eating--which is exactly what we want. So, in addition to the fresh salad plate, we are treated to:
- menemen: a savory vegetable stew with tomatoes and peppers and with two eggs poached in the middle, cooked in olive oil
- gösleme: a kind of Mediterranean quesadilla with flakey pastry, with goat cheese, herbs, and butter inside
- fresh salad
- rich whole wheat bread with a generous plate of honey for dipping, and a chunk of butter with the honey
We learn from our new acquaintance that everything in this restaurant is organic. He makes a big point about this. He and his wife live on the coast some 40 km away (25 miles), and they drive up there for breakfast. His children go there too.
We are in heaven. And it's the best honey ever. And no, we didn't buy any.
Bergama / Pergamon
Later that afternoon, we reach Bergama, the rather shabby modern-day city built on, near, and around ancient Pergamon. Our hotel room has a wonderful view of the acropolis of Pergamon. Even though it is late, we decide we mustn't wait to go there.
Pergamon was given to the Romans without a battle by its undefeated king, the last of the Attalids, who died without an heir. Its acropolis is therefore singularly unified in plan, taking advantage of its dramatic west-facing slope. Below: the remains of what was once the second greatest library in the ancient world (after Alexandria); the underpinnings and foundation of what is believed to be the altar of the temple of Zeus; the partially restored temple of Trajan; and the breathtaking ampitheatre, seating 10,000 people.
The best thing about today
"So..." I ask Dan over dinner that night, "what was the best thing about today?" I know what I would say, and Dan gives me his answer too. It's unanimous. On a day when we've seen the ruins of Troy and the acropolis of Pergamon, the best thing about the day is... lunch!
Click here to see an interactive map of our trip
Follow this link to start again at Istanbul
Return to the Dardanelles and Çanakkali
Onward to Kuşadasi