On the road to Bodrum, we find the answer to a question that must be plaguing tourists all over Turkey. Everywhere we tourists go, there are shops selling carpets. In case you too are wondering where all these carpets come from, the answer is: A carpet farm! We saw the sign!
In Bodrum we stayed at the El Vino Hotel, which our travel agent (the friendly, helpful, and efficient Ingrid at Anker Travel in Kuşadasi) described as a "city hotel" (this is as opposed to a "beach hotel"). But it doesn't meet Dan's and my image of a city hotel, which would be one located, oh, say, half a block off the medieval town square. The El Vino is a real hike out of the center on an unremarkable street, not near anything. But hey, as promised, definitely not on the beach. But this is possibly the best place we've stayed yet. And that, despite the fact that nobody there speaks much English. The garden is lush and beautiful. Profusely flowering bougainvillea vines climb the hotel building, framing a view from our balcony of the gardens and pool and, beyond that, over the wall of our "compound", the city circling its blue harbor and the Aegean at the horizon. We could imagiine staying here in Bodrum for a week---and we haven't even left the hotel yet! We postpone going into town. We eat lunch in the pavillion by the pool. We read by the pool. Dan swims for the first time this trip.
Near 4pm, we rouse ourselves and trek into town. It's not as far as we though from looking at the map. Two plumbing-supply stores sandwich a lingerie shop (who is buying what for whom here?). Scooter-rental, fabric, and electronic-supply stores give way to the touristy stuff. I am, it turns out, friends with the guy who gave us directions to our obscurely-located hotel. He and I wave as Dan and I walk by.
We avoid touring ancient sites. Don't want to ruin the vacation altogether. However, I pause briefly to photograph that famous native son of Halicarnassus (now Bodrum): Herodotus.
The town is white and beautiful and spotless. Dan and I have developed hawker immunity. They call to us less than they used to. We answer their "Hello"s with a smile and a "Hello". We are happy to be here. They are happy that we are friendly. Everyone seems happy here. The harbor is filled with glistening, bright wooden sailboats. You can rent these boats for a day, a week, who knows, perhaps forever.
A medieval castle divides the waterfront into the harbor on the one side, and on the other side, the beach. Cafés put their tables out right on the sand; it's true waterfront dining. A restaurant in town tempts us with its 7-kilo octopus and other delicacies, but the lure of our little hotel in Eden is stronger. We go "home" for the sunset and then dinner at the hotel's rooftop restaurant, with two glasses of an organic cabernet that is actually good.
Click here to see an interactive map of our trip
Follow this link to start again at Istanbul
Return to Kuşadasi and Ephesus
Onward to Greece!